Fungal Gold
By Daniel Butler, author and forager
Truffles have intrigued man for centuries. These aromatic warty gems grow underground and are seemingly irresistible to wild boar and squirrels, yet it is only comparatively recently that they began to appear on human plates – or at least those of the nobility. For much of the Middle Ages and early modern period they were viewed with suspicion by the Catholic Church: associated with lust and possibly even the devil. About two centuries ago their culinary possibilities started to be recognised by French and Italian chefs.
Summer truffles are more widespread than most people realise
(Image: Author’s own)
These magical, highly-flavoured, subterranean gems are not only difficult to find, but are also very choosy when it comes to the soil and host-species. It is possible to find them without the help of an animal’s vastly superior scenting powers, but in practice finding them really requires the help of a dog or a pig. The latter find them without training because the fungus gives off a scent which closely resembles the pheromones of a sow on heat. This means they are instinctively drawn to them, but the downside is that they will also immediately try to wolf them down. As a result, a dog is a much better option. Almost any dog can be trained to find these smelly gems, but intelligent breeds with particularly good scenting abilities such as spaniels or pointers tend to be used.
Pigs need no training to search out truffles
(Image: Author’s own)
The world’s most valuable truffles are found in southern Europe – most notably in France, Italy and the Balkans. The highly prized Alba or white truffle (Tuber magnatum) commands the highest prices, but is largely confined to Northern Italy and Croatia. The French prefer the black or Perigord truffle (Tuber melanosporum). This generally sells for less - but can still fetch well over €1000 a kilo.
Neither white nor black truffles are found in Britain, but we do have 28 species, including the summer truffle (Tuber aestivum). This is less intensely aromatic than the highly-prized Continental varieties, but is still very edible. Until recently they were so found so infrequently it was assumed they were extremely rare. This now seems to have been a mistake and, following the chance discovery of the fungus in a Wiltshire plantation in 2004, dedicated foragers have begun to find them widely.
The high prices commanded by truffles means that since the 19th century there have been many attempts to farm them by planting suitable broadleaf trees with truffle- inoculated roots. The soil has to be alkaline, so they are usually found in chalky or limestone areas. Despite the name summer truffles can be found from July to February. They have a warty appearance with a tough black skin. Inside the flesh is creamy brown with white veins and there is an unmistakeable pungent aroma.
Intelligent dog breeds with good scenting abilities make excellent truffle hounds
(Image: Author’s own)
Truffles can sometimes be found by looking for signs of animals such as squirrels or deer digging around the base of broadleaf trees such as oaks or beech. This is very hit and miss, however, and anyone seriously interested in finding truffles is best advised to start by going out with a professional and a trained dog.
There are currently only a handful of British truffle specialists. Some are consultants who give planting and management advice, others run dog-training courses and a couple lead specialised forays. Melissa Waddingham does all three, harnessing the scenting abilities of her cocker spaniels to find truffles along the South Coast: ‘It’s all about following the chalk,’ she says. She says they can also be found on limestone in places such as Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. Despite this, she says her main drive is to persuade woodland owners to see the potential for truffle-harvesting as part of woodland management.
A few drops of truffle oil can transform mashed potato or scrambled eggs
(Image: Author’s own)
There is, however, a relatively cheap way of enjoying this fungal gold, The earthy volatile scents are comparatively easy to synthesise and are used to perfume edible oils. A few drops or tiny dribble can then be used to flavour dishes. Scrambled eggs perked up with a few drops make a wonderful Sunday breakfast, but it also works particularly well with root vegetables. One local restaurant has truffled chips as one of its signature side dishes, for example, and I regularly give foray guests truffled cream of celeriac soup.